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Hey, guys…remember this:



“Your mission, should you decide to accept it Mrs. Taylor, is to take the parts on this table and elsewhere and build a very steady, strong, and exceptionally beautiful cockpit table.  As usual, should you choose to proceed, but fail, everyone will laugh at you.  The decision is yours, Mrs. Taylor.  This recording will self destruct in five seconds.”

 
Well, here she is:


This photo shows the table broken down.  The truth is that next Wednesday, the boat will come out of the water for a bottom job and some new instrument installation that needs to be done on the mast.  We will not actually install this table until after we get the boat back from the boatyard.  For those who may not understand what they are looking at, the table attaches to the forward side  of what is called the pedestal guard; the pedestal guard is attached to the pedestal.  The pedestal is what the wheel used to steer the boat is attached to.  In the photo above, if the table were actually installed, the table would be in the up position with the leafs closed…the back of the boat and the wheel would be on your right, the front of the boat and cabin would be on your left, and the cockpits seats would be at the top and bottom of the table.  The long piece of wood on the far left is the leg that will support the table when in the “up” position…the stainless steel latch, that is sitting in the middle of that board, secures the leg in the “up” position.  One can see three stainless steel piano hinges in the photo.  One side attaches to the table brace on one end and is then attached to the underside of the table.  The second hinge is attached in the center of the board and allows it to fold in half when in the stowed or “down” position and not being used.  The third hinge is connected to the other end of the long board, as well as the second piece of wood from the left in the photo…that second piece of wood (with the two holes in each end, is subsequently attached to the binnacle brace with two of the four stainless steel “U” bolts that are also show in the photo.  


This photo shows the table as it would look when in the “up” position, and the two leafs closed.  With the exception of when at anchor, or if motor sailing in extremely calm seas, the table when in the up position will have the leafs closed.  The wood that one sees around the edge are called “fiddles”…they serve one purpose and that is to keep things from sliding off the table when the boat heels over.

This shows the table with the leafs open.  When the leafs are open, the width of the table is exactly doubled…from 14″ to 28″.  Again, unless docked or in very calm waters, generally the table will never be in this configuration.  The four hinges are countersunk to be flush with the table top.  Notice that there are no fiddles when in the open position.  If one looks closely at the bottom of the photo they can see the stainless steel piano hinge that runs the entire 14″ across the table.  One side of that hinge is attached to the table, which is reinforced on that end…the other side, is attached to the piece of wood that will be attached to the binnacle brace with the remaining two “U” bolts shown in the first photo.

This photo shows the table as it would look in the “up” position as seen from the helm looking forward.  The fiddles are clearly visible in this shot.  As well, if one looks closely at the board at the extreme bottom of the photo, they can can see the two holes that are drilled on each side where the table itself is attached to the binnacle brace. 

All of the hardware is stainless steel.  With the exception of the fiddles, all of the stock is 1″ stock.  The support leg is solid teak, as are the two pieces that are attached to the binnacle brace.  In the above photo, between the bottom piece of teak and the fiddles is a piece of solid black walnut.    That particular piece is quite important for it is the main connection of the table to the binnacle brace.  That end of the table is reinforced on the bottom.  The Walnut piece is attached to the main table with expoxy…as well, the screws that attach the piano hinges on the table side, are of a length such that they screw through the walnut cap piece and into the reinforcement of the table itself.

The table and fiddles are solid genuine mahogany.  All of the woodwork on the table has ten coats of polyurethane on it; after the third coat, each subsequent coat was wet sanded with an increasingly fine grit.  The final coat was allowed to cure for seven days before being wet sanded with 3000 grit paper, and then compounded, before being polished.

This was a fairly time consuming little project.  The total cost was about $250 or so.  That might sound high, until one decides to just go buy one.  Not only would it not be of the same quality and strength, but would cost more money than you would imagine…easily a $1,000 or more.  HERE will give you an idea of how much it would cost to buy one already made.  I’m pleased with the results…and can’t wait to install it.  To kind of see what this table will look like installed and get a better idea, you can look HERE for a similar design…at the bottom of the page…that shows the table of a similar design in both the up and down position.

The next wood working project is a drink and condiment caddy that will attach to the binnacle…sitting on top of, but not attached to the table itself.

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